Vienna, Austria is an amazing city. You can feel the old imperial grandeur around every corner. In the wide boulevards. In the massive ornate structures. In the sophisticated formality of the people. But it has a funkier, fun side, too. And it's undeniably gorgeous. You could easily spend a month here exploring but, for those travelers with less time, here are a lucky 13 things you just can't miss.
1. Get your Hapsburg On
You've probably heard of the Hapsburg Family. They were, um, kind of a very big deal. They also intermarried their cousins like it was going out of style, leading to all sorts of genetic issues in their lines of succession...but I digress. Inbred or not, the Hapsburgs reigned supreme for many years as the emperors of the "Holy Roman Empire." They also ruled the powerful Austrian (later Austro-Hungarian) Empire. A Spanish branch of the family controlled Spain, while the cadet branch of Hapsburg-Lorraine reigned over parts of France. They were one of the most powerful families in Europe for centuries, from the 1200s, right up until the defeat of Austria-Hungary and its allies in WW1. In short, the Hapsburgs were some bad ass, not-to-be-trifled-with, VIP mofos. And Vienna was their home turf.
Wandering this city, you can tell. It's still the Hapsburgs' world, and you are just a lucky tourist in it.
Vestiges of Hapsburg rule are everywhere. One of Vienna's most prominent sites is the Hofburg Imperial Palace - the primary residence of the Hapsburg royals from around 1279 up until the fall of their empire. Today, you can tour the palace and grounds, learn all about famous members of the family who lived there (including Empress Sisi, a fascinating woman worthy of her own post), and wonder at the riches and opulence of one of the richest families in history.
You can also tour the various churches housing the Hapsburgs' remains. Crazy as they were, the Hapsburgs actually had the different parts of their bodies placed in different churches after their deaths. Hearts went to one church, bodies to another, and the rest of their guts had to be kept in yet another church, stored in copper pots and copper pots only. Apparently, it was actually in their wills that this tradition had to be followed. Weird, right? Inbreeding, people. Inbreeding. It messes with your brain. Anyways, make sure you take some crypt tours. The stories about the various types of Hapsburg remains are fascinating, gross, and - at times - hilarious. (Preview: copper pots often leak. And - shocker - guts smell).
Into books? Tour the Hapsburgs' old library at the Österreichische Nationalbibliothek. Or you can view an art museum that started as the private art collection of Maria Christina Hapsburg and her husband at the Albertina. Finally, there is the Spanish Riding School, where you can check out the purebred horses performing tricks and dancing according to centuries-old equestrian training traditions. You can picture what it must have been like when the royal Hapsburgs had a whole stable of these fancy horses, and nothing better to do than buy some more. A very unusual experience.
2. "Kiss" at the Belvedere
The Belvedere is a massive palace, originally built for Prince Eugene of Savoy, which later became another Hapsburg royal residence. Now, it houses a world-class art museum. The most famous piece might be "the Kiss" by Gustav Flint, but it's got a varied, and pretty extensive, collection. It's also got some bomb ass gardens.
3. Drink in the Famous Viennese Café Culture
Vienna is famous for its "café culture." People sit in cafés, sloooowly sipping their "kaffee" and reading the paper. Many cafés are upscale, elegant. Think: dark wood paneling; chandeliers; delicate looking cakes and pastries in crystal serving trays; waiters with bow ties; rich leather upholstery. It's like stepping back into the Belle Époque for a caffeine fix. I don't even drink coffee and I couldn't get enough.
Some of my favorites were Café Schwarzenberg (the oldest café on the Ringstrasse), Café Mozart, Café Museum and Café Weimar. But there are so many more to try!
I also enjoyed the Sacher Hotel Café. I tried both the famed Sacher tort and the almond cake (I actually liked the less famous almond cake much more), as well as the special hot chocolate/coffee combo with the signature apricot liqueur. Delicious!
4. Check out the Churches
In the heart of Vienna, in a large square bearing its name, sits St. Stephan's Cathedral.
St. Stephan's is a gothic masterpiece, built in the 14th century. Around the same time, the famous St. Vitus in Prague was being constructed. The builders of St. Stephan's made sure that this was the bigger, grander structure, thereby ensuring that they got a bishop (and that Prague didn't). This legitimized Vienna and increased its stature and importance. Eventually, the seat of the Holy Roman Empire moved from its former capital of Prague to Vienna.
The inside of the Cathedral is amazing. It's huge and, with its tall columns and exquisite masonry work, quintessentially gothic.
Vienna's other major church is Karlskirche, a.k.a St. Charles', located just outside the ring. Vienna's best baroque church, it was built in the early 1700s as a tribute to god, thanking the heavens that Vienna was spared from a plague that swept through the rest of Europe.
You can actually take an elevator ride up the cupola to eye-up some amazing art on the dome. Unfortunately, the interior was closed when I was there. But I still got to enjoy the exterior.
I especially liked the columns, with the ornate carvings swirling upwards. Like the similar columns found in Rome (among other places), the etchings tell a story. The Karlskirche columns depict stories from the life of the Milanese bishop who inspired the church.
Even though St. Stephan's and Karlskirche get all the love, my favorite Viennese church was St. Peter's.
Located around the corner from St. Stephan's, tucked snugly in a little roundabout, lays this wonderfully charming church. Outside, it looks fairly unassuming. Inside, though, St. Peter's is just extraordinary. Covered in gold and starburst shaped sculptures and reliquaries, it feels almost orthodox in its decoration. It is far less crowded than St. Stephan's, but feels so much more special (in my opinion, at least).
I found this (somewhat) hidden gem very moving. While I usually appreciate the architectural wonder of Europe's grand churches and cathedrals, they rarely move me to feel anything other than engineering-based awe. This felt different. This felt special. Don't get me wrong -- I didn't hear voices from heaven or anything. It just felt like a really joyous place.
5. Stroll the Graben and Kohlmarkt
In between St. Stephan's and the Michaelplatz entry to the Hofburg lay two pedestrian-only streets that are just perfect for strolling. Leaving St. Stephan's, it's a straight shot down the Graben.
This street was originally a moat for a Roman military camp. Later, it was a busy commercial street frequented by horses and multiple lanes of carriages. Now, it's lined with shops, cafes, and amazing architecture. Big stone buildings, ornate sculptures, and classic art nouveau accents are everywhere. There is also a large sculpture known as the Plague Column. It was erected as a memorial to the thousands of Viennese that died from bubonic plague in the late 17th century. Vienna lost between 1/2 and 1/3 of its population in the course of a few months. No wonder they were so thankful the 1713 plague missed the city!
Reaching the end of the Graben, hang a left and head down Kohlmarket. This is the 5th Avenue of Vienna - the spot for fancy designer shops and for ladies who lunch. Interspersed with the Gucci and Armani you will find gourmet food shops, including Demel, a classic chocolate store. Do yourself a favor and stop in for some elegant and tasty treats.
While Karntner Strasse is also pedestrian-only, and just as famous, if not more so, than Graben and Kohlmarket, I found it much less enjoyable. It feels way too touristy and cheesy. Graben and Kohlmarket retain more of an elegant feel. Plus, they are closer to great lunch spots, like #6, below.
6. Enjoy a Light Lunch At Trześniewski
Located on Dorotheergasse, right off of the main Graben drag, is a little food shop called Trzesniewski.
Trzesniewski offers one speciality only: fancy, little, open-faced finger sandwiches. To be clear, the variety of sandwiches is staggering. But these sandwiches is all that they serve. And damn if they don't do it perfectly. It's no wonder this place is an institution among the locals.
You walk in, look at the menu (english translation is available, and the servers are super nice and patient, too) and point to what you want. 2-3 sandwiches and a tiny juice-box sized beer make a perfect little lunch. And all for about 5 euro. There are standing tables inside and outside, and everyone crowds around those tables and eats their dainty little sandwiches.
I don't know why I was so into this place but I went back a couple different times during my time in Vienna. I just really liked the way it was both elegant and supremely chill. It is an unusual combination: gourmet ingredients, eaten standing up with your hands with a sippy cup of beer. I loved everything about it.
Tip: Don't wait too late in the afternoon to go. The selection gets slimmer as the day goes on.
7. Ride Around the Ringstrasse
In medieval times, most cities were surrounded by fortified walls. Vienna was no exception. Its medieval city walls stood until the mid-19th Century, when emperor Franz Josef had them torn down and replaced with a wide boulevard. Today, that wide boulevard is known as the Ringstrasse, and it encircles the heart of Vienna.
You can use Trams #1 and #2 to ride around the city on Ringstrasse. Hop on and off to see the many sights located on or near the ring, like the Opera House, Rathausplatz (City Hall), the Burg Theater, the Votive Church Schwarzenbergplatz and MuseumsQuartier.
8. Explore the Museums
Right outside the Ringstrasse lies Maria Theresienplatz (Maria Theresa square). It sits between two massive structures. One is the Kunsthistorisches Museum, the other is the Naturhistorisches Musuem.
Kunsthistorisches is a world class art museum, housing art amassed by the very wealthy Hapsburgs during their many centuries in power. This huge museum houses Titians, Rubens, Vermeers, Rembrandts, Velazquezs, Botticellis, Carravaggios, Raphaels...in other words, name a European master and the Kunsthistorisches likely has some of his/her work.
The Naturhistorisches is a natural history museum, housing exhibits about dinosaurs and other anthropological wonders.
Behind Maria Theresienplatz lies the MuseumsQuartier. This building, which used to be the Haspburg's stables, was long ago converted into a space containing several smaller museums. Many focus on temporary cultural exhibits or modern art.
9. Nosh at the Naschmarkt
Have you worked up an appetite yet? Stop at the Naschmarkt!
This open-air market has fresh produce stands galore, but also offers plenty of places where you can grab a snack, a beer, or a glass of wine.
You can also sample gourmet vinegars, or sample foods from across the countries once ruled by the Austro-Hungarian empire.
10. Visit the Austrian Versailles
Ok, so this is technically a Hapsburg related attraction, too. But history aside, Schloss Schönbrunn is an amazing sight in its own right.
Schönbrunn, located just outside of the city, was the Hapsburgs' "summer palace" where they would escape when Vienna got too hot and crowded. Like Versailles, it started as a royal hunting lodge. Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II bought the land and started construction towards the end of the 16th century. Like Versailles, Schönbrunn was gradually expanded - and bedazzled - as the years went by, and the ruling family got richer and more powerful. And like Versailles, the amazing gardens and topiaries are almost as amazing as the palace itself. By the late 1800s, it was the grandest palace, and the favorite residence, of many of the Hapsburg rulers.
Today, you can get to Schönbrunn from Vienna easily by subway, tram, bus, cab or uber. Once you are there, have couple options for touring the palace. There is the Imperial Tour focuses on the imperial residences of Franz Joseph (one of the last reigning Hapsburgs) and his wife, Sisi (mentioned above). The Grand Tour adds on additional rooms from the era of Maria Theresa (Marie-Antoinette's mother). The Classic Tour lets you explore both the royal apartments and the gardens (which are definitely worth exploring). You can also get a combined pass for some of the Hapsburg-related sites in the city. No matter what you pick, you can't go wrong!
11. Stop and Smell the Gartens
Vienna has no shortage of green spaces. There is the sprawling and manicured Stadtpark, to the east of the Ringstrasse. There is also the charming Burggarten, with its elegant cafe and terrace, located behind the Hofburg.
The palatial gardens around Belvedere (see #2, above) are also worth exploring, as is the adjacent Schweizergarten. But my favorite Viennese outdoor space was the Volksgarten.
I loved its colorful flowers, statues, fountains, and views of the Hofburg and Burg Theater. And I loved that it seemed to be a playground for people from all walks of life. Young and old, from punks to hipsters to elegant matrons to frazzled couples chasing their toddlers, this place pulsed with vibrancy and life. Plus, thanks to all the flowers, it smells really, really good! I stayed here for a long time, enjoying the foods I brought from the Naschmarkt and reading Danubia (which is a perfect read when vacationing in Vienna!)
12. Get Acquainted with Amadeus (and friends)
Vienna is the city of Mozart. It is a city that revels in its musical history, and still very much enjoys live classical music. Which means there are plenty of music-based experiences for visitors to enjoy.
Though Mozart was born in Salzburg, he spent many of his most famous and most productive years in Vienna. At the Mozarthaus, you can tour the house he lived in from 1784-1787. This is where he lived when he was working on some of his most famous masterpieces, such as Don Giovanni and the Marriage of Figaro. Exhibits teach you about Mozart, his family, his work, and also about the music of the time in general. Though the museum is not big, I thought it was pretty cool.
You could also check out the Haus der Musik, which advertises itself as "an Interactive Sound Museum." I did not go when I was there (not enough time to see it all!) but a couple other tourists I met had really enjoyed it, and said it was especially interesting for their kids.
The main musical attraction in Vienna, though, are the live performances. The Vienna Philharmonic and the Vienna Boys Choir are always amazing. The amazing Opera House is itself a site worth touring, even if you don't take in an opera (though if you can, definitely go to an opera!)
If you visit outside of opera season, like I did, there are still plenty of options for live music concerts. Because I somehow stupidly failed to plan ahead, everything was pretty booked up. I ended up at one of the really touristy men-dressed-up-like-18th-century-aristocrats shows -- i.e. the most cheesy and least impressive class of classical music performances in Vienna. And you know what? It was still really, really good! Even the "worst" music here is so much better than you would expect. Take advantage of it and go to a show! Even if it is a costumed cheesefest.
13. Take a Day Trip to the Wachau Valley
Vienna offers plenty to see. But if you feel like a trip out of the city, or need some variety, venture out for a day in the peaceful Wachau Valley.
The valley is home to the winding Danube River, and it is dotted with tiny villages, fortified mini-castles, and vineyards. Above Dürnstein, a small, quaint town along the river, sit the ruins of a castle where Richard the Lionheart (Richard I of England) was imprisoned in the early 12th century. In Willendorf, another valley city overlooking the Danube, you can learn all about the Venus of Willendorf, an artifact found here in the early 1900s that is thought to date back to between 28,000 and 25,000 BCE! In Spitz, you can explore a charming cobble-street town and sample wines from the local vineyards.
Melk is perhaps the most common Wachau Valley stop. It is home to a huge abbey, which was originally built in the 11th century as a Benedictine monastery. After a fire, it was rebuilt in the 18th century in grand baroque style.
Krems is another popular stop, with its country charm and picturesque old town. You can take a cheap, quick train from Vienna to Melk, and another from Krems to Vienna. You can then explore the valley between either by boat, by bike, or some combination of the two. A number of companies offer tours, or you can put one together yourself by renting a bike and picking and choosing where you want to go.
I actually went for an organized boat tour through Viator (an unusual choice for me). It was pretty good, but I would have liked to have more free time to explore the countryside. Next time I go back, I want to do a self-guided bike tour to all the vineyards and small towns along the river.
No matter how to choose to explore, though, you can't deny that the Wachau Valley is gorgeous. It's a great way to cap off a visit to Vienna.
All referenced activities and accommodations were paid for by me. To the extent any specific hotels, restaurants or activities are recommended, I received no compensation for my recommendations. As always, my opinions are my own, and only my own.
Image credit for banner photograph and starred photographs to BigStock Imagines, Wix Webdesign. All other photos taken by, and property of, Curious Borders.
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