I recently got back from a city I had been wanting to visit for as long as I can remember: Prague. Known as Praha to locals, the city was everything I wanted it to be. The romantic beauty of Paris, crossed with a special brand of unique Eastern European, Slavic/Germanic-fusion flair.
Prague has a rich medieval history (Prague was the seat of the Holy Roman Empire between 1355 and 1437 and again between 1576 and 1611), tons of interesting sights, great food (and plenty of fresh-brewed beer to go with it), and some of the nicest people you will ever meet. And - as its nickname implies - spires of all shapes, sizes, and colors dominate the skyline. This city is an architectural feast.
I loved everything about Prague. The only problem I had was leaving! So what were the must-sees and dos? Here's my whirlwind 5-day itinerary for Prague.
Day 1
Historically, Prague was divided up into several smaller districts. On the East side of the Vltava River, there was the Old Town (Staré Město) and the New Town (Nové Město). On the west side of the river, there was the Castle Quarter and the "Lesser Town" (Malá Strana), located under the Castle Hill.
Spend your first day in Prague exploring the heart of Staré Město. The centerpiece of Prague's old town is Old Town Square - aka Staroměstské Náměstí. Start your adventure here. Many of the iconic images you see from Prague are pictures of this square.
One of the biggest central squares in Europe, this place is breathtaking, and bursting with energy. Cafes with outdoor seating spill into the square from every angle.
The square is laid out in kind of a disproportionate L-shape. At the bend of the L, you will find the famous astronomical clock.
The clock is located on the side of Old Town Hall, construction of which began in the 1300s. Its tower rises almost 230 ft (70 m) tall. Climb up - it's a hike but it is worth it for some absolutely spectacular views of the square.
The architecture ringing the square is stunning. The distinctive twin spires of the Church of Our Lady before Týn rise up into the sky, giving off some seriously moody gothic vibes. In front is a large statuary monument to Jan Hus, an early protestant reformer whose execution led to the Hussite Wars. Gorgeous neo-renaissance, baroque, and onion-domed buildings round out the rest of the square.
Sit back and soak it all in. Grab a seat at one of the many eateries lining the square or snag some street food from the stalls between the town hall tower and the church and cop a squat. Not hungry but thirsty? Head up to the rooftop bar at the Hotel U Prince, order a drink, and relax.
When you have absorbed your fill of Old Town Square energy, head to the adjoining "Little Square" (Malé Náměstí). Stand at the wrought-iron fountain at its center, and do a spin tour of the architecture around the square, including the sgraffito-decorated Rott building. It houses the Hotel Rott, where I stayed during my trip.
Backtrack through the big square, then leave it through the alley to the left of the Our Lady before Týn. Following this windy medieval-vibey lane will bring you to Ungelt courtyard, one of the oldest places in Prague. Ungelt means "customs" in German; this area was a hub of commercial activity in Prague between 1200-1400. International merchants would congregate here after selling their goods in Old Town Square. From Ungelt, find and follow Celetná street until you hit the gothic landmark, Powder Tower (Prašná brána).
The Powder Tower was built in 1475 and has served many purposes over the centuries. It was the main gate of the old town wall, a storage place for gunpowder (hence the name) and, later, along with the nearby square, served as the starting point for the "Royal Way" - the route the Czech kings took through the town, to the castle, on coronation day.
While you are here, check out the Municipal House, which is next to the tower. It functions now as a concert hall, and it is a wonderful example of the Art Nouveau architecture that is all over Prague.
Now head down to the Estate's Theater, where Mozart's Don Giovanni premiered in 1787. On the way, pass the House of the Black Madonna, an historic building with Cubist architecture offering works of Czech Cubism and an elegant cafe.
From Estates Theater, head to Havelský Market. This open-air market dates back to the 13th century. There, you will find food, gifts, souvenirs, and all sorts of goodies. It can be a little touristy, but it is still worth a stop.
Still have time and energy? Náměstí Republiky Square, near the Powder Tower is a transportation hub, from which you can get almost anywhere in the city. Or, head back through old town towards the river, hang a right, north, to check out Josefov, the Jewish quarter. Wander south along the river, to the National Theater and then Slovanský Ostrov, a little landscaped island where concerts are often held.
Tonight, find a local pub and throw back a few beers. You'll be in good company. Czechs consume more beer per capita than anyone else (about 161 liters of beer per person each year), so there are no shortage of places to drink, and lots of delicious beer to be had. Lokal is a good place to start. Pilsner Urquell is made in the Czech Republic, and is very popular; Staropramen is another locally-produced favorite.
Day 2
Today, venture across the river to explore the Lesser Town.
Start by doing a modified version of the Royal Route. Begin in Old Town Square, leave by passing the Little Square you saw on Day 1, and take Charles Street (Karlova). This street can be quite the tourist gauntlet. It is lined with gift shops, cafes and restaurants, souvenir hawkers, and places to buy traditional "chimney cake" (yummmm) and gelato.
Following Karlova, you will wind up at a little square, marked by the Baroque churches of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Salvator, a large statue of the ubiquitous Bohemian King Charles IV, and the Old Town Bridge Tower.
Old Town Bridge Tower leads to - you guessed it - the iconic Charles Bridge. Like every clichéd tourist that has ever been to Prague, I loved this bridge.
The bridge was built across the Vltava (aka the Moldau) in 1357 by Charles IV to connect the Castle and Lesser Town to the Old Town. There had been bridges in this location before, but they had all been damaged or washed away by floods. This bridge - called "the Stone Bridge" at the time of its construction - was specifically built to last longer. It was Prague's only bridge until 1841.
The bridge offers amazing views of the Castle, and is quite beautiful in it's own right, as well. It is punctuated with statues of various saints, many of which are tied to famous Czech legends.
Being an attorney, I like the St. Ides statue the best. The patron saint of lawyers, Ides is depicted standing alongside justice. If he has a beer in his outstretched hand, the local law students just finished their finals.
For each statue on the bridge, there are at least two street artists selling hand-made jewelry or paintings of the bridge and the other major sights in Prague. Along side the artists, musicians play unique classical-modern mash ups (my favorite was the string quartet playing Joan Jett's "I Love Rock And Roll" and Queen's "We Are the Champions").
The juxtaposition of the statutes in the foreground, with the spires of Prague in the background, makes for an absolutely beautiful skyline. In short, the bridge is vibrant, beautiful, and pretty awesome. There is a down side, though . . . you will be one of about 500 tourists enjoying it at any given time. Which means that it is pretty hard to capture the true beauty of the bridge in a photograph. (I kept promising myself I would wake at sunrise to get a shot of a people-free bridge. Turns out I like my snooze button far too much to keep that promise).
As you near the far Charles Bridge, before reaching the towers, take the stairs on the left down Kampa Island, a charming and quiet little haven under the western edge of the bridge.
Next, head to the Lennon Wall. When John Lennon was killed in 1980, some locals painted a graffiti memorial on this wall. The then-communist police painted it over. Locals graffitied the wall again. Police cleared it, again. Through several rounds of this back-and-forth struggle between the people and the police, the wall became something more: A symbol of rebellion against oppression and the denial of free speech. Hope for a more liberal future. Even though the communist police are long since gone, this wall remains. It is ever-changing, constantly being painted over with new graffiti, and always interesting.
Leave the Lennon Wall and head back towards the end of Charles Bridge and the Lesser Town Bridge Tower. Look up Mostecká street into the heart of Lesser Town.
Explore. Back in the day, this is where the nobles lived to be close to the king and the Castle.
Today, the area is filled with little shops, cafes and restaurants, along with the impressive baroque Church of St. Nicholas.
From here, you could hoof it up the steep Nerudova or Thunovská streets to the Castle. But, save that for tomorrow. Instead, head to the baroque Wallenstein gardens.
The nearby Gardens under Prague Castle ("Zahrady pod Pražským hradem") and Pálffyovská zahrada are worth a stop too, as they offer amazing views of the city skyline.
From here, you can head up to castle hill via the steps from Pálffyovská zahrada, to the path into the side castle gardens. If you have time to squeeze that in today, go right ahead. I did it one day. But I find most people prefer a slower pace. They like to take a whole day, to give themselves time to explore leisurely explore the castle area. So, if you find yourself in that camp, stop here for the day.
Head back down hill and grab some food at one of Lesser Town's pub-like eateries on your way back down to the bridge. I recommend Malostranský Hostinec, in front of St. Nicholas.
In the evening, maybe take in a concert. Prague is a classical music town. Concerts are held almost nightly in churches and historic venues across the city. The musicians are very good, and the tickets are extremely affordable. You can get tickets for these concerts right near the Týn church. Look for the doorway on Týnská with a sign that says "Via Musica." You can also get affordable tickets to the opera at the Estates Theater. Enjoy!
Day 3
Now it's Castle time!
The "Castle" is really a complex of buildings, meaning there is much to explore. There is more beyond the castle, as well. So make a whole day of it and get to know Caste Hill!
The dual spires you see from the river are actually that of the cathedral, St. Vitus.
Go inside and check it out, in all its gothic splendor. Construction began in 1344, but there were older churches on this spot prior to that.
This is where Czech kings were crowned, and where a number of famous Czechs are buried. Perhaps the most famous is St. John of Nepomunk, whose statue is on Charles Bridge. Another unique sight in this cathedral is the stained glass window designed by Alfons Mucha, the famous Czech artist.
Next, explore the Old Royal Palace, which served as the residence of the Bohemian Kings since the 9th century. The Vladislav Hall gets all the hype - and it is pretty cool - but my favorite part is the room covered with crests, which you find upstairs from the hall.
Other sights in the castle complex include the "Story of Prague" exhibit, St. George's Basilica, Rosenberg Palace, Lobkowicz Palace (containing an art museum), Golden Lane (where Franz Kafka lived for a while) and, of course, the gardens. There are also several options to grab a bite.
Once you have finished exploring the castle complex, leave through the front castle gate and continue in the direction away from the river. There is plenty more to see up here, including The Loreto (a historic pilgrimage sight) and the Strahov Monastery (offering an interesting library and curiosity displays, as well as great views of the city). You could also head over to Petrin Hill park and tower.
After dark, check out some of the funky bars that are in Old Town, but off the "main drag" route. A popular one is Hemingway Bar, on Karoliny Světlé.
Day 4
Today, we are back on the eastern side of the river. It's time to get to know New Town!
Na Příkopě street - where the old town wall used to stand in the middle ages - now serves as the border between Old and New Town. Find it and follow it to the bottom of Wenceslas Square. Wenceslas Square was first built around around 1348, when the Charles IV founded the New Town of Prague. His new city plan included several areas for open markets, one of which was the "Koňský trh", or Horse Market. The square was renamed in the 19th Century.
This long square, lined with wide shopping boulevards, is the heart of "New Town," as well as a showcase for some amazing architecture.
Wenceslas Square is also the place where the most important events in the last century of Czech history have taken place. When WWI ended, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the areas that the Empire had ruled over - including Prague - were no longer under Imperial control. It was on Wenceslas Square that crowds gathered to celebrate their new freedom and the creation of an independent Czechoslovakia. Sadly, 20 years later, during WWII, this same square was also the scene of Nazi occupations.
After WWII, Czechoslovakia became communist, part of the Warsaw Pact. In 1968, it was in Wenceslas Square that Czech citizens protested against communism and the invasion of Czechoslovakia by the Soviets. Finally, in 1998, Wenceslas Square was where hundreds of thousands of Czechs gathered to hear that the communist government had resigned.
Czechoslovakia's unusually peaceful transition away from communism is known as "The Velvet Revolution." This unique historical event is worth reading up on, as is "The Velvet Divorce" (the peaceful separation of Czechoslovakia into the independent nations of Czech Republic and Slovakia).
Today, the square is a commercialized district with lots of shops, but you can still see the balcony from which Václav Havel - the revolutionary poet, symbol of freedom and, later, Czechoslovakian president - announced the resignation of the communist government.
At the far end of the Square lies the enormous National Museum. In front stands an equestrian statue of Duke Wenceslas (yes, like the Christmas Carol). Wenceslas was a Czech leader from the 10th century. He unified and christianized the country, allied it with the Holy Roman Empire, and made many building and infrastructure improvements in Prague. He is a symbol of Czech nationalism and a very popular figure in the Czech Republic.
If you are into modern art, head into the Lucerna Arcades mall, and check out the odd "Wenceslas Riding an Upside-Down Horse" sculpture. It was made by David Černý, an infamous artist known for his odd and often controversial projects.
If weird art isn't really your thing, check out the Franciscan gardens instead.
If you want to explore more of New Town, head to Charles Square, the Mucha Museum, the Museum of Communism, or the Franz Kafka monument.
After dark, take a night time stroll or sign up for a river cruise. The bridge and the castle are amazing when they are all lit up! In the alternative, you can dance all night at Karlovy Lazne, a multi-level club (the biggest club in Central Europe) right next to the Charles Bridge.
Day 5
It's time to get out of the center of Prague and relax a bit. To do that, head south along the river to Vyšehrad, another castle complex, which was once occupied by Bohemian kings.
A note about getting there: I decided to walk. I strongly regretted that choice, as did the 100 blisters on my feet. Now, I may not have regretted it quite so much if it had not been 97 degrees out. But for most people, the 45 min trek is likely undesirable. So I would recommend taking the metro (Red, "C") line to the Vyšehrad stop. The Výtoň stop on the #17 tram also gets you pretty close. (You can buy tickets for Prague public transport in the Metro station - a 24-hour pass is pretty cheap, and covers all trams and metros).
Once you get to Vyšehrad, wander around and take it all in. The hill- top fortress has a long and fascinating history. In the 1000s, the first "King of Bohemia" settled here, and it was considered the main castle in Prague. It was later abandoned in favor of Prague Castle, but there is still much to see here. The cathedral is beautiful, and the cemetery and surrounding park are peaceful and worth a stroll.
The hill offers amazing views of the river and Prague castle, far away in the distance. You can also see the old fortified walls, wander the ramparts, and even go inside the walls in some places. You can take in the mythological sculptures, and the various medieval structures littered across the hill, or can just kick back and enjoy the grassy park-like spaces, as many locals do.
Later, at night, savor your last moments in this magical city by enjoying some cocktails - and the beautiful, night-lit scenery - back where you started, on Old Town Square. Plan your next trip back!
All referenced activities and accommodations were paid for by me. To the extent any specific hotels, restaurants or activities are recommended, I received no compensation for my recommendations. As always, my opinions are my own, and only my own.
*Image Credit for starred pictures to Shutterstock Images, through Wix Webdesign. All other photos taken by, and property of, Curious Borders.
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